The Church of the Holy Trinity, or Soteira Lykodemos, stands out for its massive, prominent dome, the largest medieval structure remaining in Athens. Built in the eleventh century, the church once served as the catholicon for a large…
Byzantine and Ottoman Athens
This walk leads you through the winding alleys of Plaka and Monastiraki to seek out the overlooked Byzantine churches, hidden bathhouses, and Ottoman-era monuments tucked away beneath modern Athens.
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1. Holy Church of the Holy Trinity - Soteira Lykodemos (11th c.)
2. Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius
The small church of Saint Eleutherius is built entirely of reused marble blocks from older, pagan monuments. You can see the jumble of history on the exterior walls, where ancient reliefs, theater masks, and carved inscriptions are fitted…
3. Kapnikarea
The church of Panagia Kapnikarea sits directly in the middle of Ermou Street, a stone-built structure with a low, rounded dome that forces the modern shopping crowds to split around it. It dates to the eleventh century, when it served as…
4. Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa - Monastiraki
The Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa sits low against the pavement, its roofline capped by a red-tiled dome that seems to sink into the surrounding modern storefronts. This church served as the main chapel for a nunnery that once…
5. Museum of Modern Greek Culture (Tzistarakis Mosque)
The Tzistarakis Mosque features a distinct, rounded dome that rises above the stone walls of Monastiraki Square. Built in seventeen fifty-nine, it served as the primary place of worship for the Ottoman governor, Mustapha Agha Tzistarakis.…
6. Old Madrasa Gate
The Old Madrasa Gate stands as a heavy, weathered stone archway tucked into a modern streetscape. It served as the entrance to a seventeenth-century Ottoman theological school. When the Greek War of Independence began in eighteen…
7. Fethiye Mosque Museum
The Fethiye Mosque sits near the Roman Agora, recognizable by the weathered limestone masonry of its central prayer hall and the distinct lack of a minaret. Built shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Athens in fourteen fifty-eight, the…
8. Bathhouse of the Winds (Museum of Modern Greek Culture)
The Bathhouse of the Winds is the only public bath from the Ottoman period that survives in Athens. It features an octagonal stone dome and a low, unassuming profile that kept the interior heat trapped during the winter. By the…