The Safdarjung Tomb stands apart because of its heavy, bulbous dome and the charcoal-streaked sandstone that forms its facade. This sandstone mausoleum was built in seventeen fifty-four for the man who served as the Grand Vizier to the…
Jor Bagh and Karbala
This walk takes you through Delhi's quietest post-independence elite enclave, highlighting the striking architectural and social contrasts between an upscale neighborhood, a dense refugee colony, and historic shrines.
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1. Safdarjung Tomb
2. Jor Bagh Park
Jor Bagh Park is marked by a massive, weathered dome of a seventeenth-century tomb, the Najaf Khan, sitting right at its northern edge. While the rest of the green space offers a quiet canopy of jamun and neem trees for morning walkers,…
3. Jor Bagh Market
The U-shaped layout of the Jor Bagh Market hugs a central grassy courtyard, creating an open-air enclosure that feels disconnected from the heavy traffic of nearby arterial roads. Designed in the nineteen-fifties to serve the residents of…
4. Karbala Jor Bagh
The Karbala in Jor Bagh features a sunken courtyard surrounded by low, whitewashed walls that keep the site hidden from the street level. This burial ground serves the Shia community of Delhi during the mourning month of Muharram. In the…
5. BK Dutt Colony
Batukeshwar Dutt Colony is a dense cluster of compact, boxy residential units defined by their uniform cream and weathered concrete facades. It was built shortly after nineteen forty-seven to house refugees arriving from West Punjab during…
6. Najaf Khan's Tomb
The red sandstone tomb of Najaf Khan stands out for its stripped-back, fortress-like appearance, lacking the ornate marble inlays common to Mughal architecture. Najaf Khan was a Persian nobleman who served as the commander-in-chief for the…