The smell of hot ghee and frying dough defines the corner of Shyam Sweets in Hauz Qazi. This shop specializes in nagori halwa, a breakfast dish of deep-fried, crunchy puris served with semolina pudding and a spicy potato curry. In nineteen…
Old Delhi Breakfast Tour
Skip the hotel breakfast to weave through the historic alleyways of Chawri Bazar and Chandni Chowk before the morning crowds arrive. This walking tour samples Old Delhi's most legendary morning bites, from spicy chickpea stews and deep-fried stuffed breads to melt-in-the-mouth halwa.
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1. Shyam sweets
2. Lotan Chole Kulche Wala
The scent of simmering yellow peas, spiced with a secret blend of garam masala and a generous dollop of butter, defines this corner. Lotan Chole Kulche Wala began as a humble cart in Old Delhi over a century ago, founded by Lotan Mal. The…
3. Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala
The yellowed, handwritten sign above Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala claims a legacy dating back to nineteen hundred and twenty-three. Passersby identify the stall by the heavy, sweet scent of frying dough and the persistent crowd surrounding…
4. Old Famous Jalebi Wala
Old Famous Jalebi Wala is marked by a deep, bubbling vat of golden syrup kept at a constant simmer right by the front counter. Nem Chand Jain opened this shop in eighteen seventy-two, settling in the shadows of the Jama Masjid. He…
5. PT. Gaya Prashad Shiv Charan
The brick facade of Gaya Prashad Shiv Charan features a deep, arched entryway that contrasts with the cluttered stalls of Katra Khushal Rai. This structure served as the traditional headquarters for a major textile trading house that…
6. Natraj Dahi Bhalla
The brass bowl of Natraj Dahi Bhalla sits on a narrow counter, constantly refilled from a massive vat of yogurt. The shop occupies a corner of Kucha Mahajani, identifiable by the crowd of people eating standing up while balancing small…
7. Chaina Ram Sindhi Halwai
Chaina Ram Sindhi Halwai sits behind a simple, crowded storefront in Fatehpuri, identifiable by the stacks of golden, syrup-soaked sweets visible through the glass. Chaina Ram founded the shop in Lahore in nineteen oh one. When he fled to…