Agra Chaat House

The Agra Chaat House sits near the railway station with a steady haze of steam rising from its heavy iron griddles. Customers crowd the narrow stall for aloo tikki, potato patties fried until they are deep golden brown and crisp. In nineteen forty-seven, the original owner arrived here from Pakistan, carrying little more than his family recipe for the spiced tamarind chutney that now defines the shop. Every day, the staff flattens and fries hundreds of potatoes in the same corner spot.