Ostrow Tumski is defined by the twin spires of the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist, which rise over the Oder River like stone needles. This is the oldest part of Wrocław, an island that served as a fortified settlement long before the city expanded around it. In nineteen forty-five, the retreating German army turned the cathedral into a defensive stronghold, leaving the interior hollowed out by artillery fire. The medieval stained glass and centuries of history vanished in the smoke and falling masonry.
Most Tumski
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