Gurdass Ram Jalebian Wala

The heavy scent of saffron and bubbling ghee marks the entrance to Gurdass Ram Jalebian Wala. Tucked into the narrow, crowded lanes of Katra Ahluwalia, this shop operates out of a space barely wider than the giant iron kadhai that dominates the storefront. Gurdass Ram began frying these bright orange, coiled jalebis here in the nineteen fifties. He developed a recipe for a thick, fermented batter that remains unchanged, still poured by hand in continuous spirals into the hot oil.