Raju Bhai Rabdi Wala

The shopfront at Raju Bhai Rabdi Wala sits flush against the narrow lane, marked by a constant, swirling plume of steam from massive iron pans. Raju Bhai has been thickening milk here for over forty years. He starts each morning by reducing full-cream buffalo milk over a slow wood fire until it turns into a dense, sweet, and golden rabdi. People wait in the alley for their clay cups, preferring the version with a heavy spoonful of saffron and crushed almonds.